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Phase 2 - Engine Assembly
How to set the ZC timing

Frequently Asked ZC Questions

Q - I've hard that the serial number on the ZC engine can tell you about where it came from?
A - wil@crx.org tells us that ZCs with a serial number starting with 2 is from Civic/CR-X and with a 5 is 2nd-gen Integra

Q - What clutch do I need for my 88/89/90-91 CRX and what type of flywheel can I use?
A - Check my transmission page for that information.

Q - What is the difference between the "ZC" ECU and the 88-89 Integra ECU?
A - The ZC ECU comes from the car that originally had the D16A8/9 (ZC) - thus one would assume that it is "perfectly" matched to the engine.  The 88-89 Integra ECU comes from the, you guess it, 88-89 Integra. This car came with the D16A1 engine that was a 1.6l DOHC engine (no it does not bolt into a second gen) that was very close (but not exactly the same) to the ZC. Since the Integra's are easy to find here in the US that is the reason it is cheaper.

Q - Do I need special mount kits or shift linkage for the ZC swap?
A - There is no need for mount kits or shift linkage for the ZC swap - it's is "identical" on the mounts and tranny to the D16A6 and D15Bx engines.

Q - I hear that the ZC engines aren't very reliable and have problems.
A - Two issues are at hand here - first is that these are used engines and despite the "30k" number everyone seems to throw around they are still used.  The best thing you can do is ensure that you have a compression test done on your engine prior to having it shipped (expect 160psi or better in each cylinder) and better yet is a "leak down" test that determines through the use of compressed air, how much "leakage" each cylinder has and where it is leaking from.  The second is that you should take the time to not only install it right but also replace all the parts that generally can be easily replaced (see a list of those parts here).  Also try to get a newer engine (1991) engine if possible (check below for how to look for manufacture year markings)

Q - Do I need to rebuild the engine prior to putting it in?
A - This is really your choice.  There is no doubt rebuilding it will add some life and reliability to the engine but in my opinion, the internals are generally fine (though leak down and compression tests would be a better way to determine this).  If you plan on going forced induction with a turbo at something above 10psi then rebuilding with a better bottom end would be highly recommended.

Q - I hear that these engines come with broken parts - is that true?
A - Yes it is true.  Not always but some engines come with various different parts broken - pulleys, sensors, throttle bodies and so forth.  Is it a major problem?  Not really, just replace the items with the stock items (such at the throttle body) or make a trip to the junk yard and get the affected part.

Q - I'd rather do a B-Series swap than a ZC swap.
A - By all means do it!  The B-Series swaps are much greater horse power (as much as the 160hp range) but with that also comes much greater cost and complexity with B series swaps running well over $2000 without installation.  I feel most people with reasonable technical skills should be able to swap in the ZC no problem.

Q - Do I need an Integra ECU for my ZC to work?  Does it work better?
A - Even though you don't need a new ECU the engine does run better with the Integra ECU.  You can purchase one from a Junk Yard or have your current ECU re-programmed (Si owners) by Zdyne (http://www.zdyne.com).  The reason the 88-89 Integra is used is because that car came with the D16A1 engine, which was DOHC and very similar to the D16A8/9 (ZC).

Q - Do I need to purchase the ZC Transmission to work with the ZC engine?
A - Your current HF/DX/Si transmission will fit up to the ZC engine just fine.  The advantage to the ZC transmission is it's equal length shafts (you must purchase new half-shafts for the ZC transmission) and it's lower gearing.  The major issue with the ZC transmission is the short 5th gear - though you can take the internals from an Si and ZC transmission and mate them together.  Exact ratios and clutch information can be found on my transmission page.

Q - Is $xxxx to much for a ZC Swap?
A - The answer to this depends - primarily on where you live and the if qualified people live in your area to perform your swap.  The general "going" rate is about $500-600 for labor only by someone who is "very" qualified.  I would not pay someone that has not done a swap to do your swap.

Q - I have a DX (Civic or CRX) and would like to do a ZC swap - can I?
A - Sure!  Just take a look at the DX swap page for more information.  Other than the additional wiring, it's the standard swap.  Make sure you know EXACTLY which wires need to be spliced to which wires BEFORE you start.

9.1 without Catalytic Converter
9.5 with Catalytic Converter

4 Valves Per Cylinder - 16 Total