Jan 6/7 - Now it's time to put it all back together. 

A few problems have cropped up with the parts.  Since the ZC doesn't exactly come shipped with a direct parts list - I've had to do my best to collect all the info off the net but some of it appears to be a bit off - I have posted a complete list of what ACTUALLY goes in the car here.

Here is the ZC engine all cleaned up - no wiring or hose ends.  The original ZC flywheel is mounted.

How to install the timing belt on a ZC engine - Step By Step
  1. Roll the engine over to TDC - How?  You will notice that the key in the pulley is pointing straight up, you should also be able to look down from the top of the cam gears through the the two "triangles" and line up the single triangle in-between.  You should now see the white line that matches in line with the triangles.  The three marks, including the middle red one, should be to the front of the engine facing up.  Another tip is to use the existing timing (assuming it's ok) and line up the two marks on the INSIDE of the cam pulleys with the top of the head.
  2. Remove the crank pulley (you may need a breaker bar or impact wrench) - don't allow the pulley to move
  3. Remove the timing belt cover (bolts under the crank pulley also)
  4. Put "pins" in the top of the cam alignment holes (or small Phillips screw drivers) to prevent the cam gears from moving
  5. Loosen the tensioner bolt
  6. Remove the timing belt and any other items (water pump, crank and cam seals)
  7. Place the belt back on while checking to alignment of all items (cams and crank) - you may need to put a screw driver in the idler wheel to hold it out enough to get the belt on
  8. Tighten the tensioner bolt
  9. Attach the timing belt cover
  10. Attach the crank pulley (be sure to put the key back in)
  11. Check the alignment by rolling the engine through (counter-clockwise toward the back)
  12. Make sure that the timing cover marks and the cam gear marks (on the outside of the cam gears) match up with the head
This is the timing belt cover showing the alignment marks.  Not shown are the crank pulley marks.
These are the cam gears.  If you look close you'll notice that the "UP" arrow is slightly off center toward the middle.  On US market Honda engines they normally would but with these they SHOULD be off center - see below.  If you look VERY carefully you will see marks on the INSIDE of the cams that also match up to the top of the head.  If it helps any - you should 12 belt "teeth" from cam to cam as shown in the photo.
If you look down at the cam alignment holes you'll see that they do line up even though the cam arrow markers show they are off.
To the left we have the original ZC fly wheel (attached at the place I purchased the engine as it was an Automatic actually) and to the right we have my stock Si fly wheel.  The ZC flywheel wasn't in good shape (see below) and the plate was just as bad.
This is a closer look at one of the burn spots in the flywheel that rendered it bad without first having it re-surfaced.  As you've heard before - if you surface your flywheel (inner) you need to also do the outer surface to maintain the correct spacing.

Also be sure not to use the flywheel bolts marked with "AT" on the heads.  These are the automatic bolts and are not long enough for the flywheel.
Here is the transmission waiting to receive the throw out bearing.  Marcelo says to sand down the sleeve that the throw out bearing rests on with fine grit sand paper to smooth it out as dirt quite often gets under the old bearing and scratches it.  Make sure to thoroughly clean the area surrounding the input shaft.

 
Here is the throw out bearing mounted.  
This is the ACT Clutch after it was mounted up to the fly wheel.  Don't forget to replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel.  The item in the middle is the clutch disk alignment  tool.  Be sure to use 12 point sockets on the plate bolts.  
Sorry about the poor quality of this photo.

What is shown in this picture is the intake manifold support bracket from the original Si motor that doesn't quite line up to the exhaust hanger mounting bolts.  You just have to leave this bracket off the ZC.

I should also mention that you should not attempt to use the crank pulley from your Si engine either -  even though it doesn't have the power steering loop on it and appears to bolt up just fine - the diameter of the pulley may be different.

Here is the crank pulley on the ZC engine.  It was broke in transit but since the outer edge is just for the power steering that the USDM CRX's don't have it shouldn't be a problem.  NOTE - do not use your stock Si pulley as they could be different diameters.  The stock Si pulley is 6.03 inches.
This is the engine after it was almost all wired up.

This phase took about four and a half hours to complete by one experienced mechanic and his "helper" but included replacing all seals, water pump, clutch, belts, etc.

Click Here to See the Install Phase

Click HERE to return to the ZC Page

 

All content copyright David Moore 2000, 2001