Jan 4 - Let the fun begin!  Erik and Marcelo Ortiz start the removal of the stock engine.  

Below is a step-by-step of the major steps taken to do the first phase - Engine removal.  A side note - this was done in a shop with the correct professional tools (air tools, lift, engine hoist, etc) by a veteran 10 year  Honda technician with the assistance of another skilled guy.  The total time from drive in to engine out is ~ 1 1/2 hours - this is EXCEPTIONAL and with less experience you should expect about 4-6 hours.

Here is what we're after - the stock US Domestic Market 1.6 SOHC 1.6 engine.  This engine has served me will into 127k miles without a lick of problems (well except for that timing belt incident.)

This is the much lauded TPS sensor that comes broken on most engines (in the upper right corner - the green item).  

If it looks clean it's because I let three cans of engine cleaner and a 2250 PSI pressure washer loose on it but generally it was pretty clean (more so than my stock engine).
One very important recommendation - PRIOR to starting the swap thoroughly CLEAN the current engine with a few can's a de-greaser at the local car wash.  This will keep your floor and hands from getting so dirty.  I also recommend draining ALL fluids from the motor to be swapped in and once the motor to be removed is "parked" - remove ALL fluids (radiator, oil for both Transmission and Engine).
The lift really helped out here.  
  • The car was lifted and wheels removed.  
  • The exhaust down pipe from the header to the cat was removed.
  • Shift linkage was disconnected (yes you will have a problem getting out the pin).
  • The lower wishbone bolt and hub nut (it will be a problem getting it off with a breaker or impact wrench) was removed allowing both axels to be removed (think about replacing your "half-shafts" if they have more than 150K on them as they are under $100 per side).  
  • Back down on the ground -
  • Battery removed!
  • The cooling system was drained and the radiator and fan were removed (again - consider replacing the radiator since they seem to go out after you've got some mileage on them - mine was new and less than $200) along with upper and lower hoses (to be replaced).  A hint here - Marcelo placed a plastic protector in front of the A/C evaporator coils that are in front of the radiator that are exposed to being hit during engine removal.
  • The A/C compressor was disconnected from the block (but was left connected so a recharge isn't required).
  • ALL wiring harnesses were DISCONNECTED (DO NOT remove the wires at the sensors but instead at the major connection points near the fuse block and the resistor box on the drivers side. There will be 3 plugs (plus two wires into the fuse box) on the passengers side and two plugs (if you have an Si or HF) on the drivers side. 
  • Air intake and filter box (mine was stock)
  • Throttle and clutch cable
  • Alternator belt can be left on but the A/C belt and compressor must be removed from the block.
  • Fuel line (pinched to prevent leakage)
  • Distributor (to prevent damage on removal from chain).
  • Coolant hoses (upper, lower, supply and return from heater core on other side of firewall

What WAS NOT removed:

  • Vacuum canister
  • A/C (just disconnected the compressor from the bracket)
  • Master Cylinder or related parts
  • Starter
  • Alternator
  • A/C Condenser 

Make sure EVERYTHING is removed before lifting out the engine - go slow.  All but the rear and passenger side transmission mounts and the drivers side engine mount were removed.  The engine hoist was attached (to the passenger side mount and around the drivers side engine mount and pulled out "whole".  The slack is taken out and the remaining bolts removed.

There were four people involved here - one to pump the hoist, one to guide the passenger side, one controlling the angle and the last to hold the hood "open" since it's a close fit pulling it out (you might consider just taking the hood off).  If you look in the picture you will notice that the hoist has an "pitch" adjuster (block and tackle) that allows the engine to be turned up about 60 degrees to remove it out of the engine bay (he is using a air wrench to turn it).  I should note that taking the transmission out with the engine (with everything attached except for the A/C compressor)  seems to be the best way.

As you can see here the engine is at quite an extreme angle in an effort to remove it and the transmission at the same time.  Be careful and watch for the A/C lines, "hidden" wires or lines and the hood/sheet metal.  WATCH YOUR HANDS AND ARMS.

This is the pulled engine.  Notice all the wiring is basically still on the engine.  This will allow you to easily reach all the connectors.

This is an underside shot of the car's engine bay after the engine has been pulled.

On To Phase 2

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All content copyright David Moore 2000, 2001