Continuing On....
| Mount the oil pan with the attached oil return flange. Make sure that you have installed a NEW oil pan gasket - for the ZC you can use a 88-91 CRX gasket and use sealant where required (see photo above). Attach oil supply line with a hose band (part #17). Wrap the oil return line (part #29) with the the heat resistant cloth from the GReddy kit and secure them with the "zip ties" (part #30). |  |
| Now attach the down pipe (part #4) to the turbo outlet (part #3) with the supplied gasket (part #27). Simply push it up and using a 10mm socket and wrench, attach the three bolts and lock washers. | |
| Now attach the other end of the down pipe to the catalytic converter with the two "spring loaded" bolts. Then attach the "support" to the transmission bolt as the stock down pipe was. | |
| You will now notice that the "bracket" that used to hold the stock exhaust pipe in place does not fit as shown in this photo. This is fully mounted. I had to have mine cut off and re-welded into position. |
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| The solution to the problem of the bad bracket? At trip the the "mon-i-key" people and a few bucks later ($25 plus a few other welds) I have a new bracket for the charge pipe (not shown) and the exhaust pipe. |
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Install a new oil filter then fill the engine with the recommend amount of oil - I recommend that you use a FULLY synthetic oil such as Mobil-1. Check to make sure that the oil level is correct. |
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Add anti-freeze to the radiator and check the level. Be sure to "Burp" the hoses and remove all the air from the system or it will promptly overheat. Check all the vacuum hoses and make sure they are connected - listen for any "hissing" that indicate loose hoses. |
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Now comes the piping to get all that air into the engine. Sounds simple? Well it isn't. Click here to see how it was "originally" intended to be installed on the 92-95 Civic's. Several notes - if you are willing to move the battery somewhere other than the engine compartment then you will have more routing options. If you have A/C then expect problems unless you follow my instructions. If you don't do that then you need to plan on custom making your own charge and intake tubes or having them fabricated at a muffler or performance shop. After about an hour under and above the car I /finally/ found a good way to use the stock pipes and minimize changes required in the engine compartment. |
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| First take part #7 the one with the bracket on it (but not with the tube outlet on it) and cut off the bracket with a hack-saw. Then from the compressor outlet that is facing downward you should use a silicone coupling (part #20) and banding (part #22) to attach part #7, with the short end into the turbo as shown in this photo. You can use an 8mm socket to tighten the clamps | ^^ Front of Car^^ <<< Passenger Side My suggestion is to have a muffler shop bend a few more |
| Next - use the long charge tube (part #7) that is "J" shaped then measure 6 inches from the straight end then hack-saw it off. Take a moment and clean out the scraps and clean off the burrs. |  You'll keep the right half of the pipe as shown in this picture. |
| Now take the charge tubing cut in the step above and push it
up between the firewall and the back of the engine so that it comes out
right near the throttle body. It should miss the half-shaft with
enough clearance - if not then adjust accordingly.
Then attach the two pipes together with the silicone coupling (part #20) and banding (part #22) using a 8mm socket. FYI - I've had no problems with heat transfer or the banding coming loose. |
 <<--- Back of Car
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| The only way I could get the charge into the throttle body was to purchase a radiator hose that was "just right" and would attach to the charge pipe and the intake. I searched quite a bit and found that "SKU #066446 Part# 823" from AutoZone fits PERFECT. I don't have a clue as to what truck it normally fits. |  If you are wondering if the radiator hose is ridge enough - it is! It stiffens when at boost but otherwise it's worked out well. It also keeps the engine compartment looking very "stock" like. If you think about it - the radiator hose is perfect - the radiator is about 10-20psi and is "hot". |
| Now you need to make sure that the pressure does not escape or cause a hose with vacuum or boost to come off, especially in the case of the MAP sensor. Using zip-ties or some other suitable method, make a tight connection around all affected hoses. | |
| Now re-install the cross member that was removed at the start of the process. Now several people have noted that they needed to notch the member for the down pipe to fit bit I found that just by giving it a few good whacks with a hammer did just fine to create some additional space for the down-pipe to clear. I think it depends upon your exhaust system and engine mounts as to whether it will hit or not. | |
| Now you need to get some filtered air into the
turbo.
Since having a custom pipe bent from the turbo compressor inlet to the filter isn't possible due to the tight confines, I decided to go with standard "flexible" exhaust tubing that I could bend into place. |
 The bendable tube is from AutoZone and is 2" 1/4" I.D. and 18" long. Use the silicone hose connection (part #20) with hose clamps (part #22) on each end to attach it. You will also need to notch the fan shroud where the pipe passes by the battery. Though I'm not sure exactly why (is it the air blowing over it from the radiator fan?) - the intake pipe doesn't get that hot - even though you would think it does. |
| I went the cheap route on the BOV. I know you can get really "cool" sounding BOV's and they come in a wide range of colors - but I elected price and functionality over the former. The address is on the main page for ordering ($25). |  Here is the mounted BOSCH - Blow Off Valve. The hose on the top goes to the manifold and tees off of a vacuum/pressure (at boost) line. I have elected to just vent mine out and not back into the intake. The connections on the in and out are both 1". If you are wondering where the "in" hooks up to - I had a "inlet" welded onto the charge pipe at the base of the compressor side of the turbo. FYI - This one makes no sound. |
| Cut the GReddy intake pipe as indicated in this
photo then attach fittings and hose as indicated. This pipe then gets attached to the flexible exhaust tubing from the previous step. The exhaust gas burn-off hose that goes to the valve cover will hook into a 28" - 1/2" "vacuum" hose. |
 Cut GReddy Pipe as indicated.  This is the finished pipe with a "hose connection" and the hose inlet from the valve cover. Since the remaining silicone hose connections (part #20) have been all used, you will need to make a trip to the Home Depot and purchase a "hose connection" (plumbing section) - it should look exactly as above with a 2" I.D. |
| Assemble the air filter (part #31) to the "universal adapter" (part #32) with bolts and lock washers. Then just attach it to the pipe attached in the above steps. |  |
| Along with my ZDYNE ECU I ordered higher flowing injectors. There is basically two ways to increase the amount of fuel into the intake - more pressure (to increase the volume) or larger injectors at the STOCK pressure. I follow ZYDNE's logic - stock "turbo" cars don't have super high pressure (50+psi ranges) fuel. |  New 450cc Injectors from ZYNDE |
| This is the fuel rail after I pulled it from the car with the stock injectors on the rail (less the injector seals). Using the ZDYNE unit allows use of the stock Fuel Pressure Regulator system and thus you do not need the secondary GReddy unit (part #33). |  Be sure to oil up the seals on the injectors prior to installing them. |
| Now that the turbo is installed - it's time to turn our attention to the management of the turbo and it's boost. I have chosen the ZYDNE ECU for this job. Start with removing the stock ECU (or Integra ECU if you upgraded) by pulling back the passengers side kick panel carpet then installing the new ECU. |  The two red boxes are the new ZDYNE chips. |
| Now is the time to go back and make sure that everything is connected and nothing is "left out". Make sure that you have checked the oil level, oil supply line to the turbo and charge pipe. | |
| If you should get any codes from your ECU - here is a listing of the codes and their meanings. |
0 - ECU |
| You need to now get
that oil into the turbo BEFORE you start the car. Disconnect the
spark plug wires - this will prevent the car from starting. Roll
over the engine a few times (I had to do this for about 1 1/2 minutes
on-and-off) to make sure that the oil is pushed into the turbo (disconnect
the oil return line and check for oil). Once
done - re-attach the spark plug wires. Start the car and check for
oil leaks. Also look for any codes on the ECU and address them.
Good luck! |
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