In this phase I will describe the steps to install the turbo into the car.
| Start by jacking up the car and supporting it so that you can fully access exhaust system and oil pan. | |
| Drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Use a 14mm socket to remove the oil drain plug. | |
| Here is the stock engine with the "stock" exhaust. Note that the air intake from the stock air box has already been removed with a 10mm socket. |  |
| First we need to get the stock down pipe (a-pipe) removed from the car. First disconnect the down pipe from the catalytic converter (the two bolts with the springs). You should be aware that you may need to use a impact wrench on these bolts as they may be rusted on (purchase new bolts/nuts from the Honda dealer for a 92+ Civic since they are longer). You will need a 12mm deep socket to remove these bolts. |  |
| Now remove the three bolts from the down pipe where it meets the manifold. Again, you may need to use an impact wrench to loosen these bolts. You will need a 14mm deep socket to remove these nuts. |  |
| Remove the bolt that attaches to the transmission that provides support for the down pipe and remove the bolts that attach the down pipe to the bracket coming from the back of the engine. You should now be able to remove the down pipe. | |
| Since there will not be enough room between the exhaust manifold and the radiator to remove the manifold - the first thing to be removed is the radiator fan assembly/shroud (on the passenger side). Make sure that you do not hit the radiator fins when removing the fan assembly. |  The two lines are bolt holes. The middle circle is where you should remove the upper radiator hose. On the right is an A/C line bracket - remove it as it can not be used later. The bolts are 10mm. |
| Now remove the A/C condenser fan (on the drivers side) assembly. The circles on the left side are A/C brackets that should be removed as they can not be used. The lines are where bolts should have been removed. The half circle is the where the radiator bracket that should be removed. |  |
| Since this step was one that I did not expect - you must now remove the radiator core from the car. The reason this is required is that without it's removal you will not be able to install the manifold/turbo due to the lack of space. I am sorry but for this section there are no photos. If you need detailed instructions you can consult your service manual. | |
| Remove the cross member from the bottom of the vehicle. To remove it - start by removing the transmission mount connected to the cross member - this is a 17mm bolt. Now using a impact wrench and a 17mm socket - remove the two bolts on each side of the cross member. Next remove the nut on each side that holds in the suspension linkage - this requires a 17mm deep socket and a impact wrench. Remove the entire cross member. | |
| To remove the radiator you should be able to push the A/C lines aside and just pull it out - be careful not to nick the fins. If you didn't replace the radiator when you did your swap, then you should consider replacing it if you have more than 150k miles. | |
| Disconnect the O2 sensor wire from it's harness. | |
| Remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold (4 bolts x 12mm) - this will allow you to access the studs that hold the header on. | |
| Here is a "reference" diagram of the
stock exhaust manifold for a Si. Note that the bolt sizes aren't
exactly all correct.
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| Remove the stock exhaust header from the block - an air
wrench is highly recommended here due to the tight spaces. There
should be 9 self-locking nuts that are 8mm in size.
You may also need to remove the exhaust manifold bracket too. You should now be able to remove the manifold from the engine. |
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| Start with test fitting the GReddy exhaust manifold, with the edge trimmed off. I HIGHLY recommend you look close to make sure it is not hitting the engine block as taking it back off again is NOT a fun thing once it's all mounted up. |  Shown here is where the header will hit the block.  Shown here is the gasket on the header and where it needs to be trimmed off. |
| Now test-fit your GReddy exhaust manifold (part #2) and gasket to the engine (with out the turbo attached) block to assure that it fits ok and that the "tabs" don't hit on the block. | |
| Now attach the turbo assembly that was completed in the prep phase to the GReddy exhaust manifold (part #2). It would also be a good idea to use high-temp anti-seize lubricant on the bolts to ease future disassembly. |  The small lines are the four bolts and lock washers (12mm box wrench required to tighten) and the middle line is the gasket (part #25). |
| Install the turbo/manifold to the engine block. This is a "simple" task if you have removed the fans, radiator and cross member. Just lay the entire assembly on the floor and "pull it up" from the top and attach it to the block. You will have to move the A/C lines around. |  (Shown without the radiator and fan and the turbo and manifold already mounted) |
| Affix the heat shield (part #28) to the exhaust manifold with the supplied bolts (short ones) and washers. | |
| Route the turbo oil supply line (part #9) to the back of the engine. I ran mine under the drivers side engine mount and tied it up with a large zip-tie (not supplied) to the engine mount. | |
| You will need to notch the radiator fan shroud before the turbo is installed since the waste gate protrudes into it. The fan blades should not need to be cut. |  (photo from top pointing down) |
| Back under the car - take the oil return flange (part #15) and insert
it into the oil return line (part #16) temporarily. Now place it against
the oil pan up near the top, away from bolt holes. Take a marker and
mark the location on the pan using the bolt holes in the flange as a
guide.
Using the oil flange gasket as a template, mark the two holes that must be drilled for the oil and bolts to pass through the oil pan. |
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| Remove the oil pan and gasket from the block
(you did drain the oil - right?). Don't forget to remove the transmission inspection shield and related mounting bracket to gain access to all the bolts/nuts. |
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| Drill the required holes for the bolts and oil line using the gasket as a template. Make sure they are on a flat area of the pan and don't impede the pan nuts/bolts. |   This is the mounted oil return - don't forget to insert the gasket and lock washers. |
| Remove the oil pressure sensor as shown in this diagram (the one with only one wire). It is located on the right side of the oil filter if facing the filter. This sensor should be removed with a 15/16 (standard) socket. |  |
| Do NOT do what is shown in the picture to the right. I have later discovered that with the extension on the T fitting it will break off in the block if the engine flexes under high stress. Check TOO's website here for the details on the correct way to do this. |  UPDATE: Turbo Bob recommends using adapter from the engine block (that is BPT) to the extension (that is NPT) - Autozone part number is CP7573. Cost - about $4.50 |
| Here is the completed setup. Once you
finish the previous step you will have to attach the nipple to the tee
then attach the oil supply line. This isn't easy but stick with it -
it took me 10 minutes. IMPORTANT: Make sure that the "cupped" end of the nipple goes toward the oil supply line. If you are unsure - then try fitting the oil supply line to each end of the nipple and see which one fits best - it should be obvious. |
 (Shown looking up from the bottom of the car) |