Miscellaneous Photos Page
This page has little tidbits of info and photo's people have asked for.
YOU HAVE TO CLICK THE PHOTO'S TO ENLARGE IT!
| Here is the "injector" resistor box
that you need for a MPFI engine into a DX.
|
 |
| Here are some pictures of the A/C controls for the 88-91 CRX. If you notice on the bottom photo, that the rotary knob is a separate part from the main control and hence why the A/C control breaks at the top of that point. |   |
| Here is a block that if you tile it in
Windows as your background it looks pretty nice.
Just select the picture to the right then do a "Save As" then save it in your Windows directory. Then just change your wallpaper to it.
|
 |
| If you need new foam for your seats in your
CRX then forget about getting it in the US. I had to order mine
from Canada. Here is the information:
Foam, Backrest 81520-SH3-A30AA Foam, Bottom 81530-SH3-A30AA Cover, Back 81521-SH0-C31ZA Cover, Bottom 81531-SH0-C31ZA I purchased mine through: Lombardi Autos |
 |
|
|
|
| This is a photo of the Honda OEM center arm rest in blue. |  |
| Having problems with your strut tower hitting
your fuse box? You have trim the support as shown.
|
|
| mblommel@hotmail.com
wrote in to clarify the origin of the following photos and he
says: Just thought I would let you know that the black CRX with the homemade D16 turbo setup on you misc. photos pages it Carl Wahlin's car. He is from Sweden but lived in Tampa. I rode in that car and it was very fast for a stock engine with 145,000 miles. The turbo was a water cooled IHI unit from an Isuzu impulse turbo. The intercooler was from a supra, but he never put it on. The turbo gave between 5-6psi of boost.
|
|
A 89 HF manifold that some people use with turbo's. |
|
 A Snap-On Leak Down Tester A leak down test uses a "leak down tester" (about $50-100 at better auto supply shops). What this basically does is take air from an air compressor (let's just say 100psi) then it passes by a gauge that reads "zero" when at 100psi (it is adjustable for different incoming pressures) and then it goes through a "reed" (that slows the volume of the air) then into an adapter that screws into the spark plug hole. Next the engine is rotated to TDC for each cylinder (much in the same way you do a valve train adjustment) so that the valves are closed for that cylinder, and at least theoretically, no air should leak out. When the pressure is turned on through the leak-down tester (without the output connected to the cylinder), the knob is turned (zero'ed) till the dial reads "0%", or 100psi of pressure on the output side. Then the "adapter" is plugged into the cylinder, at which time it "leaks" through things such as the piston rings and valve seats. Now that there is a pressure drop between the input (100psi) and the output (90psi) it will display a 10psi drop, or 10% leak. So? What's normal? Well less than 3% for a fully built race motor, 5% for a new production car or about 10% for an engine with wear on it. Anything over 10% is not good and a good time for a rebuild or replacement of the offending parts. So - you do a leak down and it leaks? Where is it going? Well you can tell where it is leaking by figuring out where the air is going (that 10psi). Normal places would be checking the exhaust or throttle body (open the butterfly) for positive air pressure, if you have that then you have bad seats in your head or bent or broken valves (or you have not placed the engine at absolute TDC). If you notice air coming from the dip-stick hole then you have air leaking through the rings (and the engine will likely burn oil). The leak down is much "better" than a compression test as it not only tells you where the problem is, not just that the engine can develop "some" pressure in the cylinder after a number of revolutions. |
|
